Heat Pump Not Heating? Here’s How to Troubleshoot
According to Carrier, the most common causes of a heat pump not heating are an incorrect thermostat setting, a tripped circuit breaker, or a dirty air filter. However, if the system is blowing cold air constantly or the outdoor unit is frozen, it may indicate a refrigerant leak or a faulty reversing valve requiring professional repair from your local Carrier dealer.
Why is my heat pump blowing cold air?
A heat pump blowing cold air is often caused by the system entering "defrost mode" to melt ice on the outdoor unit, which is a normal function. Other common causes include the thermostat being set to "cool" instead of "heat," a tripped circuit breaker, or a clogged air filter restricting airflow.
Troubleshooting: Heat Pump Not Heating
Before calling a professional, Carrier recommends that homeowners try the following troubleshooting steps. Knowing a little about how a heat pump works is important, because the heat pump could be functioning normally even though you are not currently comfortable.
1. Check Thermostat Settings
- Incorrect thermostat settings: If you feel cool air coming from the registers, first check if your thermostat is set to "heat." If it is set to "cool" or "constant fan," the heat pump blowing cold air is a result of those settings. Switch it back to heat. Note that air from a heat pump register may naturally feel cooler than the intense heat from a gas furnace. Heat pump supply air can typically be around 85–100°F during heating, compared with roughly 120–140°F from a gas furnace.
- Uncalibrated or faulty thermostat: If the room temperature doesn't match the setting, the thermostat might be uncalibrated due to dirt or accidental bumps. Consult your user manual to recalibrate it. If the indoor temperature is consistently more than 2–3°F away from the thermostat setting, have the thermostat and system checked.
2. Inspect Power Sources
- Circuit breaker is tripped: If the heat pump isn't running at all, check your electrical panel. The outdoor unit (usually on a 220v or 240v breaker) and the indoor unit have separate breakers. Reset them if tripped. If they keep tripping, call a professional.
- Outdoor/Indoor power switches: Ensure the dedicated power disconnect switch near your outdoor unit and the power switch on your indoor air handler (which looks like a light switch) are both in the "on" position.
3. Examine Airflow and Filters
- Dirty air filter: A clogged filter restricts airflow, potentially causing the system to shut down or blow lukewarm air. Locate your filter near the indoor unit and clean or replace it. Carrirer recommends checking your filter every 60-90 days and replace or clean it according to the manufacturer's recommendations. For detailed steps, visit our guide on how to change a filter.
- Leaking duct: If airflow is weak and energy bills are rising, you might have leaky ducts. While you can check exposed ducts for leaks by hand, most ductwork is hidden and requires an HVAC contractor to properly diagnose. In a typical home, about 20–30% of the air moving through the duct system can be lost through leaks, holes and poorly connected ducts.1.
4. Check the Outdoor Unit
- Frozen outdoor unit: If ice builds up on the outdoor coil or copper tubing, the system cannot transfer heat into your home effectively. While a light frost layer—generally less than 1/4 inch—is normal and should clear during the defrost cycle, ice buildup thicker than 1/4 inch or ice that remains after defrost is not normal and may indicate restricted airflow, low refrigerant or a defrost-system problem. See our article on will a frozen AC fix itself? for more details.
- Blocked outdoor coil: Debris like leaves or cottonwood can clog the outdoor coil, reducing efficiency. Ensure the unit is clear of obstructions. As a general guideline, maintain at least 24 inches of clear space around the outdoor unit, while following the clearance requirements for your specific model.
5. Signs You Need a Professional
- Low refrigerant charge: If the heat pump can't keep up with demand or the coil is frozen, you might be low on AC refrigerant. A Carrier dealer can check the charge and repair leaks.
- Bad reversing valve: If you have a heat pump not heating, but it works perfectly in cooling mode, the reversing valve—which switches the direction of refrigerant flow—may be stuck. This requires a local Carrier expert.
- Frequent defrost problems: Heat pumps periodically enter defrost mode during cold-weather operation to remove frost from the outdoor coil. A typical defrost cycle lasts about 5–10 minutes. If heavy ice remains after the cycle or defrost occurs unusually often, have the system professionally inspected.
Curtis Herchenbach, owner of Herchenbach Mechanical in Gurnee, IL, offers guidance on what homeowners can check themselves versus leave to a professional.
Homeowners can start by calling their service provider to check the unit through the connected portal. They should also confirm the outdoor fan is running and feel the line set to see whether it’s hot or cold.
Heat Pump Not Working in Cold Weather
Heat pumps naturally lose some efficiency as temperatures drop below freezing. If your home feels cold, your system might be relying on an auxiliary heating source, like electric resistance strips or a gas furnace.
If the outdoor unit isn't working, you can switch to "emergency heat" on your thermostat to use this supplemental source. However, use this sparingly, as relying solely on electric resistance heat can significantly increase your electric bill.
Heat Pump Not Cooling in Summer
If your heat pump isn't cooling effectively during summer, the troubleshooting steps are similar:
- Thermostat: Ensure it is set to "cool" or "auto" and the temperature is set lower than the room temperature.
- Power: Check breakers and power switches.
- Air Filter: Replace your air filter if it is dirty.
- Outdoor Unit: Clear away debris and check if the unit is running.
If these quick fixes don't resolve the heat pump not cooling, contact a professional for heat pump repairs.
When to Call an Expert
While simple fixes like changing filters or adjusting thermostats are easy DIY tasks, complex issues involving refrigerants or electrical components require a professional. We recommend scheduling a heat pump service appointment with a qualified Carrier HVAC dealer to protect your investment and ensure long-term comfort.
1 https://www.energystar.gov/saveathome/heating-cooling/duct-sealing
Frequently Asked Questions
This usually happens when the unit goes into "defrost mode" to melt ice on the outdoor coils. It can also be caused by a thermostat set to "cool," a dirty air filter, or a stuck reversing valve.
The system may be low on refrigerant, the outdoor unit might be frozen, or the thermostat could be uncalibrated. If the air coming out feels lukewarm (90-100°F), this is normal for heat pumps compared to the hotter air from gas furnaces.
Older heat pumps may struggle when temperatures drop below 25-30°F, requiring supplemental heat. However, modern cold-climate heat pumps can operate efficiently in temperatures well below zero.
Turn off the thermostat, then locate the power breakers for both the indoor and outdoor units. Flip them to "off," wait one minute, and flip them back to "on." Wait a few minutes before turning the thermostat back to "heat."
About The Author: Ryan Mayes is a Senior Digital Brand Marketing Manager at Carrier who focuses on creating clear, helpful resources on HVAC topics. Ryan’s goal is to guide readers toward smart, confident decisions about their indoor comfort.
About The Expert Reviewer: Zach Dickey is a Product Manager for Residential Heat Pumps at Carrier Corporation, where he helps develop innovative heating and cooling solutions that meet homeowners' evolving comfort needs while aligning with industry trends, energy efficiency standards, and regulatory requirements.